STUDIO CIT Y (KCAL9) — Napoleon Perdis, founder of the NAPOLEON makeup line, stopped by KCAL9 Thursday to demonstrate a make-up facelift that any woman can learn.
Faux Face Lift Talking Points:
Step 1: Create bone structure
- Begin to create lift by sculpting the contours of the face. Shade the jaw line, cheekbones and temples with a cream or powder two shades deeper than your skin tone.
Step 2: Lift the center of your face
- Apply concealer onto the cupids bow, in the crease of the nostril, above the arch of the brow and on the center of the forehead. Highlighting these areas will optically lift and tighten the center of the face for a more youthful appearance.
- Be sure to blend well to mold the shading and highlighting together and smooth out any harsh lines
- Finish the skin by applying Boudoir Mist Spray Foundation over the face and neck in circular motions. The airbrush finish will further fuse the shading and highlighting together for a seamless finish.
Step 3: Brighten your under eye area
- Create the Hollywood V to lift and brighten the under eye area. Use a creamy concealer in a shade lighter than your skin tone and apply in a V shape under the eye- the top points of the V should meet the inner and outer corners of the eyes.
- Blend the “V” using gentle feathering motions to eliminate darkness and redness. When blending the inner corner of the eye aim to only feather the edges, keeping a concentration of color on the darkest part.
- Use the remaining product to sweep up to the lower lash line for a smooth finish and onto the eye lid for a fresh eye effect, again eliminating darkness, redness, and discoloration.
Step 4: Raise your brows
- Begin to frame the eye brows, building fuller yet subtle definition. A fuller brow gives the face a more youthful appearance. My new Browtox allows you to build definition without a harsh, drawn on finish. Work from the outside in as the outer third of the brow usually requires the most definition. Avoid heavily defining the start of the brow as this closes the eyes in.
- Always comb through the brows after defining for a natural finish; the texture of a spooly brush or brow comb will pick up excess product, leaving a finish that emulates natural brow hair.
- When defining the brow don’t extend the tail downward, extend outward to lift the eyes (and face).
Step 5: Define your eyes
- As lashes become shorter and sparser with time, apply a mascara that adds length, volume and curl to the top lashes. Make sure to get the lashes at the outer and inner corners of the eyes to lengthen and lift the eye line. Avoid applying mascara to the lower lashes as this can drag the eyes down.
- Open the eye by cleaning and brightening the waterline with a pearly, flesh toned liner. The luminous pigment gives the water line a subtle radiance and strength.
- If you like a bit more definition, use a brown gel liner to crisp and lengthen the inner corner of the eye. Apply a fine line to the first third of the upper water line. A gel liner will set and become budge proof, preventing a transfer to the lower water line.
Step 6: Accentuate Your Mouth
- Lift the corners of the lips and smooth/tighten the skin around the chin by using a lighter shade of concealer to apply a W shape under the lips (see diagram). Apply directly from the applicator with the outer points of the W blending up past the outer corners of the lips and the bottom edge meeting the jaw line. The top of the W lifts a drooping lip and the center of the W gives the illusion of tighter skin across the chin.
- To complement the highlighting at the outer corners of the lips, emphasize the peaks of the cupids bow. Use a lip liner to draw gently above the lip line while still remaining in contact with the lip. Push the height of the peaks a little to continue to lift the center of the face. Line and fill the rest of the lip, faking the shape of the lower lip line if your highlighting has created a new shape. Choose a shade slightly deeper than your natural lip color (be it pink, peach or plum) to draw attention to the lips.
- If a fuller lip is desired, highlight the center of the lips with a lighter shade of lipstick of gloss.